Inside JewFro, Richmond’s Progressive New Restaurant Marrying Jewish And African Cuisines

Some of the country’s coolest restaurants were born of the humblest, scrappiest beginnings. Take, for example, Richmond’s JewFro. What began in the fall of 2020 as a holiday pop-up called Jingle Belle at downtown’s Hampton Inn & Suites – the name shifted to JewFro this past spring – emerged as a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Shockoe Bottom a couple months ago.

Co-owned by Trey Owens, Ari Augenbaum, and Narine Hovnanian – they’re also behind the very popular Soul Taco – the restaurant marries African and Jewish cuisine with original dishes like the best-selling Ghanaian Peanut Soup with Morrocan lamb kreplach (Jewish dumplings) in a colorful, '70s-inspired setting. “We wanted to reintroduce African and Jewish food to our local culinary scene because it’s been largely forgotten,” says Owens. “We also want to change how people view Africa, because it’s not just a continent. It’s a place made up 54 distinct identities, cultures, and cuisines.”

Another thing that makes JewFro stand out? Its refusal to serve French products of any kind. Owens explains, “People don’t know there are currently 14 countries that still pay a colonization tax to France. I’m part-French, but we’re not glorifying the country in any way.”

Below, Owens discusses the inspiration behind JewFro’s cheeky name, the vibrant decor, and how the menu is developed.

First things first: how did you come up with the name? It’s definitely provocative.

Owens: I call it a “That’s so Raven” moment. It popped in my head, and I thought it was perfect. It’s edgy enough to get people’s attention, while bridging African and Jewish cultures. JewFro is my time to explore all the cultures of Africa, because one of them could be mine. For now, I can only trace my history to a ship.

And how did you decide on the location?

Owens: There’s a plaque on the side of the building, noting it’s the oldest commercial space in Richmond. There’s so much history in Shockoe Bottom. It’s home to one of the oldest farmer’s makests in the country, but it also used to be a slave market. I know my ancestors had something to do with this building, because of its location. Each cobblestone here was laid by a slave, and I think of the sacrifices my ancestors had to make. Also, there’s always been a strong African and Jewish presence here. There’s a Jewish burial ground nearby.

Can you tell me who’s behind the colorful design?

Owens: Sugar Taylor is an artiste, and understood the approach of ‘70s as an African American. She was able to take key elements of the decade, and reinterpret them in a modern way. I wasn’t so sure about the mustard color at first, but now I love it. And, it was really popular in the ‘70s. The tiles on top of the two-tone blue bar also add to the vintage vibe. For the upstairs, which is pink and white, we had Jocelyn Ryan, an employee from Soul Taco, do the funky wall accent art.

How do you develop dishes for the menu?

Owens: Ari, who cooked under African chef Morou Ouattara, is the driver of our dishes. Simply, we think of a classic dish and plug in Jewish and African elements. Peanut soup jumped out at us, because it’s popular in West Africa and Virginia is renowned for its peanuts. The kreplach is the Jewish element that brings everything together. It’s something you don’t expect. We also have a glossary on our menu, breaking down the terms and where everything is from.

Could you talk our readers through a favorite dish?

Owens: The lamb tagine is Moroccan, but we’re pushing it. Ours isn’t served in a traditional tagine. The lamb is seasoned with za'atar, then braised in the oven until the meat falls off the bone. Our version of tzimmes is made with chickpeas and currants – it’s a sweet component that complements the savory lamb – and stuffed in a gourd. Gourds came from Africa, and there’s still a ton used in African cooking today. It’s one of my favorite dishes, and a guest favorite, too.

The conversation has been edited and condensed for clarity.