Much discussion is devoted to diversity on the runway. We implore designers to be more inclusive, then track their progress with statistical reports. But little is said about the challenges black models face once they make it past the casting stage. When a model of color arrives backstage for a fashion week presentation, she must contend with artists who are unequipped to work with her hair texture and complexion. The experience serves to reinforce her otherness. It sends the message that black models don't matter — at least not enough for artists to style them adequately.
It's an unfortunate reality that most black models face in silence. Occasionally, some express their frustrations in posts that read like an indictment of the fashion industry. Five years ago, Jourdan Dunn tweeted "I swear some people need to learn how to do black hair/skin." Her tweet was followed by similar social media posts from model Nykhor Paul last July and Leomie Anderson earlier this month. With each of their impassioned pleas, they're calling for artists to put more of an effort into learning how to style black models. Why isn't the industry listening?
Ursula Stephen, who works with Rihanna and Taraji P. Henson, says black models are often at a loss when it comes to backstage styling. "[This type of discrimination] is very common, and it happens in the editorial world as well," says Ursula, who owns her own salon in Brooklyn. "I usually have to style all the African-American models when working backstage because the other stylists don't know how to handle the hair, or the model is afraid from past experiences so they want me to do their hair."
Celebrity hairstylist Seto McCoy recounts having to console a model "nearly in tears" backstage at fashion week while an inadequate artist worked on her hair. "She was upset because it was her first show, and her hair looked nothing like the inspiration photo," he recalled. "I asked if I could step in, and the hairstylist who was working with her seemed relieved. After styling that model, I was scouted by another black model who was originally prepped by a totally different artist. She wanted me to fix her look. There were several hairstylists there, and I was the only one capable of doing all types of hair."
Most artists won't bother learning how to style models of color because "there's no demand to," says model Lillian Lightbourn. The Bermudian beauty, who walked in shows like Vivienne Westwood this season, says "Creatives will only be as diverse and experienced as their clients demand them to be. When designers hire more models with different skin tones and hair textures," stylists will change their ways.
Celebrity makeup artist A.J. Crimson echoes her sentiments. "Some creatives take the tone of 'I never really work with black girls so why buy that makeup for my kit?' Or I hear 'Why even make the investment? The [non-white] subject knows she requires special needs so she should bring product with her." A.J. makes a point to hire artists who can work with models of all races. "Under Pat McGrath, I worked with diverse teams with a sense of versatility and technique," he recalled. "When I lead teams, you can't join if you don't know all skin types and know them well. It personally upsets me when I see one black girl in a fashion show and her hair and makeup is less than amazing but no one cared to fix it. How is she to walk with confidence?"
Makeup artists often place blame on cosmetic companies. If brands don't carry diverse foundation options, artists won't have the tools to cater to models of color. It's no excuse, A.J. notes, but it is an enduring problem. "Most companies just don't sell products that truly work for rich complexions." The lack of options for women of color is one of the reasons he created a foundation line that serves deeper skin tones, AJ Crimson Beauty. "[Women of color] are simply not valued as a priority. Large prestige brands aren't looking to have a direct conversation with non-white audiences. Their thinking goes: as long as the masses are covered, they've done their job."
MAC keyed several fashion week shows this season, including Monique Lhuillier and Jeremy Scott. Their diverse range of products is what drew senior artist Fatima Thomas to the brand 19 years ago. "MAC celebrates individuality and offers complexion products for every skin tone. When I started my career in the 1990s, it was rare for any one brand to have a universal offering of products for light and dark skin tones, especially foundations. But MAC did." Fatima insists that MAC artists "stock kits with global and universal beauty in mind." MAC also requires them to be "adept at working on all skin tones from light to dark." But unfortunately, they're one of the few brands that do.
Jourdan Dunn once told Dazed magazine that makeup artists would only have two foundations for her skin tone: one that's too dark and another that's too light. "You end up looking gray," she said. "I would sneak off to the bathroom and put my own stuff on."
Indeed models are taking matters into their own hands. Tyra Banks said she would hire a stylist the day before her shoots to avoid hair disasters. "The first time I shot for Victoria's Secret, I got sent home because my hair was a hot mess. And I didn't work for them for a whole year," she told Huffington Post. "I remember calling my agent and saying it wasn't my fault that my hair looked bad. This person was just not trained. I told my agent 'please call them back and just get me another chance.' I got the job [and] the night before, I had my hairdresser Oscar James come to my house. He washed my hair, he straightened my hair, and wrapped it up in a scarf. So when I arrived on the Victoria's Secret set, I took that scarf down and said 'Woosh.' And that [led to] a 10-year contract with them."
Maria Borges can relate. "I always bring my own products," she says. Maria wore her Afro out at shows like Bottega Veneta, Moschino, and Emporio Armani. "Usually, I ask them to apply the Full Swirl before they diffuse my curls and I ask them to finalize with diamond oil."
It stands to reason that black models would style themselves when artists fall short. But they shouldn't have to. In her Instagram post, Nykhor Paul pointed out that such demands are rarely placed on white models. "Why do I have to bring my own makeup to a professional show when all the other white girls don't have to anything but show up?" she wrote. "Just because you only book a few of us doesn't mean you have the right to make us look ratchet."
Racism subtly permeates every facet of fashion week from the runway to backstage. Only a few models of color are usually seen on any given runway. The models that are cast often must deal with creatives who can't style them adequately and won't bother to learn. While we’ve come a long way, in order to truly effect change, models must continue to speak out. But many remain silent for fear of losing out on job opportunities. "I was having a conversation with a black model after Nykhor Paul spoke out," A.J. shared. "The model in my chair thought Nykhor had made a big mistake and may jeopardize her career. It saddened me to hear that. Not speaking out and accepting mediocre styling shouldn't be an option," he said, adding: "When you demand better for yourself, others have to pay attention."
Related: MAC Posted an Instagram of a Black Model's Lips That Brought Out Racist Comments
